Calusa Waters and the Florida Keys

On a two week road trip to Southwest Florida and the Florida Keys, we visited Key West twice and canvassed the waterways of Calusa culture in Fort Myers, Cape Coral, Punta Gorda, and Englewood.
Wake of Key West Express
On a hydrofoil to Key West

When we were asked to present a workshop on outdoor writing in Florida at the Society of American Travel Writers regional conference in Cape Coral, we decided to build a road trip around the experience.

Summer in Florida is not the time to do hiking research, but as the publishers of Florida Hikes and the authors of an app on the Florida Keys Overseas Heritage Trail, it was crucial for us to visit the Florida Keys to see how businesses and natural areas were doing after the impact of Hurricane Irma last year.

We didn't spend a lot of time hiking. Instead, we brought our bicycles along for the ride, and ended up with one of us or the other being on the water daily for a week.

Early rides and cool breezes let us enjoy Florida's outdoors in summertime, along with a healthy application of sunscreen and big spray. Here are the destinations we explored over a two-week period.

We had two trips to Key West during this road trip: one by the Key West Express ferryboat from Fort Myers Beach, the other by car and bicycle.

PLANNING RESOURCES: Visit Sarasota | Florida Keys & Key West | The Beaches of Fort Myers & Sanibel | Punta Gorda Englewood Beach | South Dade


Itinerary

Venice, Florida

DINING: Burgundy Square Cafe, Cafe Evergreen


Key West, Florida

Key West by Ferry
Using the Key West Express ferryboat instead of spending ten hours driving, we slipped away from Fort Myers Beach for an overnight adventure exploring the best of Key West.
Wildlife in the Mangroves
Paddling the mangrove tunnels north of Key West with Key West Eco Tours, I’m surprised to discover the wildlife that lives in these offshore forests in the Florida Keys.

DINING: Azur Restaurant, Smokin' Tuna Saloon, Blue Heaven in Bahama Village, Salute! on the Beach, Half Shell Raw Bar
LODGING: Casa Marina Resort


Cape Coral, Florida

Cabbage Key Nature Trail
Hike the Cabbage Key Nature Trail for a step back in time on an island known for its great cheeseburgers and layers of mystery, from Calusa times to a mystery writer’s family retreat.
Edison & Ford Winter Estates
Tropical gardens from the 1920s grow lavishly around the historic winter homes of Thomas Edison and Henry Ford at the Edison & Ford Winter Estates in Fort Myers.

DINING: Cabbage Key Inn & Restaurant, Prawnbrokers, Marker 92
LODGING: Westin Cape Coral Resort at Marina Village


Punta Gorda, Florida

The Pint-sized Ponces of Punta Gorda
Ponce de Leon, it seems, was a short fellow. In Punta Gorda, Florida, you’ll find pint-sized statues, murals, and even the Fountain of Youth to recollect his 1513 visit to Charlotte Harbor.
Ponce De Leon Park
A city park with dramatic sunsets over a beach on Charlotte Harbor, Ponce De Leon Park is a delight for birders and paddlers, too.
Punta Gorda Harborwalk
With views that offer the opportunity to watch dolphins from the shore, the Harborwalk is a recreational gem in downtown Punta Gorda. It spans 2.3 miles and connects five parks along Charlotte Harbor.
Punta Gorda Linear Park
A greenway through the heart of historic residential Punta Gorda, Linear Park provides a mile-long corridor of nature in the city along a historic railroad line, good for a 2.3-mile round-trip.

DINING: Table & Tap, Perch 360, Dean's South of the Border, Village Fish Market, The Perfect Caper, Peace River Seafood

LODGING: The Wyvern Hotel


Englewood, Florida

Cape Haze Pioneer Trail
Don’t miss the surprising beauty of the Cape Haze Pioneer Trail, where you can bike or hike a 7-mile linear greenway from Port Charlotte through Rotonda to the mangrove-lined waters of Placida.
Stump Pass Beach State Park
At the south tip of Manasota Key, Stump Pass Beach State Park sits at just the right angle to collect seashells like a scoop, so early risers have great shelling

DINING: Mama's Italian Restaurant


Estero, Florida

Florida’s Utopia
At the Koreshan Unity in Estero, Florida, a group of believers gathered in 1894 to build their paradise. It is now a National Historic Site and a Florida State Park.

Miami, Florida

Biscayne National Park
Florida’s largest offshore park, Biscayne National Park protects living coral reefs and islands that are the northernmost part of the Florida Keys
Pinecrest Gardens
Established in the 1930s as a tropical tourist attraction, the roots of Pinecrest Gardens spring from the former Parrot Jungle, with winding paths through an enhanced tropical landscape.


DINING: Shorty's BBQ, Pinecrest Wayside Market, The Fish House


Key West, Florida

Key West Au Naturel
On a recent visit to Key West, we sought its natural side - what it looked like before it became a city. And since it’s been a city for more than 150 years, it takes a bit of sleuthing to find natural habitats.
Biking the Lower Keys on the Overseas Heritage Trail
On its 35.1 mile route from Key West north to Spanish Harbor just north of Big Pine Key, the southernmost segment of the Florida Keys Overseas Heritage Trail delights with many historic bridges.
Sonny McCoy Indigenous Park
Within sight of the Atlantic Ocean, Sonny McCoy Indigenous Park is a rare patch of green space in the city of Key West, with native trees and a natural freshwater pond.
Little Hamaca Park
A preserve along the historic Key West Salt Ponds, Little Hamaca Park has a boardwalk and footpath leading through a cross-section of the island’s habitats.
Waves at White Street
At the Atlantic end of White Street in Key West, a convergence of history, culture, and recreation happens on one of the quieter corners of this bustling island
Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden
Boardwalks and footpaths wind through curated plant collections against a backdrop of natural habitats at the Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden.
Cuban chugs in Key West
Sometimes we take history for granted. A walk through the Key West Tropical Forest & Botanical Garden led to a collection of Cuban chugs, which we didn’t know what they were until we learned their story.

Big Pine Key, Florida

National Key Deer Refuge
Established in 1957 to prevent the extinction of the diminutive Key deer, National Key Deer Refuge spans 84,351 acres across 25 islands in the Lower Keys.
Bahia Honda State Park
Home to natural beaches and a campground, Bahia Honda State Park is one of the more popular outdoor recreation destinations for camping and snorkeling in the lower Florida Keys.

DINING: Milagro
LODGING: Big Pine Key Fishing Lodge


Marathon, Florida

Sombrero Beach
At the southern tip of Marathon, Sombrero Beach offers beachgoers a natural strand and an easy beach walk within sight of the Keys’ largest lighthouse.
Curry Hammock State Park
Spanning more than 1,110 acres across a chain of islands northeast of Marathon, Curry Hammock State Park protects rare Florida Keys habitats and provides camping with a view of the Atlantic Ocean.
Long Key State Park
A former coconut plantation and angler’s destination, Long Key State Park is now a natural oceanfront outpost in the Florida Keys.

DINING: 7 Mile Grill, Cracked Conch Cafe


Islamorada, Florida

Green Turtle Hammock Nature Preserve
On a wild sliver of Upper Matecumbe Key, footpaths wind through a rockland tropical hammock where a rocky crevice emits sulfur fumes and signs warn of crocodiles.
Windley Key Fossil Reef Geological State Park
Preserving a patch of tropical forest surrounding quarries opened in 1908, Windley Key Fossil Reef Geological State Park showcases the uniqueness of the geology of the Florida Keys.
Plantation Hammocks Preserve
Adjoining Founders Park on Plantation Key, Plantation Hammocks Preserve showcases some of the Florida Keys most interesting flowers under a generous canopy of well-established tropical trees.

DINING: Craig's Restaurant
SHOPPING: The Rain Barrel, World Wide Sportsman


Key Largo, Florida

Pennekamp State Park
Molasses Reef, the most accessible living coral reef in the United States, is the reason that John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park exists in the Florida Keys. Hike, paddle, swim, snorkel, and camp.
Key Largo Hammock Botanical State Park
A botanical treasure rescued from developers, Dagny Johnson Key Largo Hammock Botanical State Park has the highest concentration of National Champion trees in the United States.
Crocodile Lake National Wildlife Refuge
Protecting more than 6,700 acres of Key Largo to provide prime habitat for the endangered American crocodile, Crocodile Lake NWR has a small visitor complex where you can learn about species conservation at the refuge.

DINING: Mrs. Mac's Kitchen, Lazy Lobster
SHOPPING: Key Lime Products